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KOBARID |
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It was at the little alpine town of KOBARID (Caporetto in Italian)
that German and Austrian troops finally broke through Italian lines in
1917, almost knocking Italy out of the war in the process. Ernest
Hemingway, then a volunteer ambulance driver on the Italian side, took
part in the chaotic retreat that followed - an experience which
resurfaced in his novel A Farewell to Arms . A processional way leads up
from Kobarid's main square to a monumental, three-tiered Italian War
Memorial (Italijanska Kostnica) officially opened by Benito Mussolini in
1938, and a fitting place from which to enjoy views of the surrounding
alps and ponder Kobarid's violent past. Back in town, the Kobarid museum
at Gregorciceva 10 (Kobariski muzej; summer Mon-Fri 9am-6pm, Sat & Sun
9am-7pm; winter daily 10am-5pm; 500SIT), presents a thoughtful and
balanced record of the war with a gripping collection of photographs.
Continue past the museum, head downhill and take the Dreznica road
across the river Soca to pick up trails to the Kozjak waterfall (Slap
Kozjak; 50min), less impressive for its height than for the cavern-like
space which it has carved out of the surrounding rock. Numerous paths
branch off from here into the wooded hills, passing trench systems dug
by the Italians during the war. The Kobarid Historical Walk brochure,
available from the museum, maps out a few potential itineraries.
Kobarid's tourist office is housed in the museum (same times; tel
05/389-9200 , www.kobarid.si ), and has a limited number of private
rooms (£5-10/$8-16/¬9-18) in Kobarid and surrounding villages. The chic
rooms at the Hvala hotel on the main square (tel 05/389-9300, www.topli-val.si
; £20-25/$32-40/¬36-45) are remarkably good value for the level of
comfort on offer. There's also a campsite , the Koren (tel 05/388-5312),
about 500m out of town on the way towards the Kozjak waterfall. As for
eating , there's nowhere cheap in town save for Pizzeria pri Vitku ,
hidden away in a residential district (take the road south out of town
and follow the signs). The Topli Val , attached to the Hotel Hvala (see
above), is one of the best restaurants in the country and specializes in
fish (including Soca trout); and with meals costing from around £20/$30
per person it's well worth a splash-out.
Details of local firms offering rafting trips can be picked up from the
tourist office or the reception area of the Hotel Hvala . One of the
biggest is Alpin Action in Trnovo ob Soci, 6km north of town (tel
05/388-5022). Expect to pay £20/$30 to £30/$45 per trip.
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