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KOPER |
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Arriving on Slovenia's coast, KOPER , or Capodistria in Italian, is
the first town you reach, a prosperous place sited on what was
originally a small island. From the main road it's an unalluring
spectacle, dominated by tower blocks, cranes and industrial estates. But
within this surge of development, Koper is a rickety old Venetian town,
crowded with a dense lattice of narrow streets.
All of Koper's paved alleys lead to Titov trg , the fulcrum of the old
city, flanked by a Venetian Loggia , dating from 1463 and now a café. At
the opposite end is the Praetor's Palace , Koper's most enduring symbol,
with its battlements, balconies, busts and coats of arms like the stage
backdrop for a Renaissance drama. Built originally in the thirteenth
century, and added to and adapted 200 years later (the battlements were
actually added in 1664 and only ever served a decorative purpose), this
was the seat of the mayor and Venetian governor, evidenced by the
facade's Lion of St Mark. Also on the square, Koper's Cathedral (daily
7am-noon & 3-7pm) is a mixture of architectural styles, its facade
blending a Venetian Gothic lower storey with an upper level completed a
hundred years later in Renaissance fashion. Dedicated to St Nazarius,
patron saint of the town, the interior is large and imposing, and holds
a Madonna and the Saints by Vittore Carpaccio, hung to the right of the
main altar as you face it. Heading downhill from the square along
Kidriaeva brings you to the Civic Museum (Tues-Sat 9am-1pm; July & Aug
also 6-8pm; 350SIT) which holds more paintings, including works by
Correggio, together with archeological fragments, ancient maps and the
like.
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